"Extase" : Couture Printemps-Été 2023 Campaign
"Extase" : Mystical state, a feeling of very great personal joy, and overwhelming emotion : this is couture to me. Creation greatly personal at the base of it all, and inspired by the lives of the diverse group of individuals around me, the generations that inspire and teach me. And so, our inspiration at the Atelier is rooted in this celebration of people, and the myriad of their human silhouettes. From the cuts that mould on the body, to embrace it, not claim; ultimately personal, each of them, entirely shaped and sewn by hand.
"Cousu main" : a needle, a thread, creation without the use of a machine.
The Couture Spring-Summer 2023 collection originates directly from our origin story : my love for the forces of nature, and admiration for the human body. Paying homage to the significant forces in our world, that breathe movement and transcendent flow, are to me, symbolic to the process of fluid shape creation that has been a guiding architect.
Symbolic for the moon, sun and earth, a triangular connection can be found, reflection on life in a digital age. Silhouettes emerging from a storm, to honour resilience and movement of the body. You are meant to live in our clothes, to eat, to dance, to be. The creations, crafted by artisanal fabric manipulation, present unique surfaces that honour nature, reinterpret suiting [1] and flou-tailoring [2] : all together an exploration of organic shapes and the human anatomy through re-invented techno-pleat designs [3]. A deconstruction of the set norms of Couture, a presentation of the process done differently.
- Peet Dullaert
Glossary
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PEET DULLAERT Signature Suiting - Cut for modern posture. Our cuts allow you to type on your phone, bend your arms at angles needed to live today’s lifestyle, whilst maintaining a fluid sartorial look. This is achieved through the house’s signature turned cut that allows for dynamic movement of the body, achieved through a bias-cut direction on the back and the arms. As opposed to traditional linear position of seams, that does not allow the wearer to live an active life, our signature cut allows for free movement of the arms complimented by design aesthetic that makes our seams flow with the body’s movement.
- Flou-tailoring – A technique where the fabric is shaped directly on a live body, without the process of creation on a mannequin. The genesis of every design created in this collection is through live draping on the body.
- PEET DULLAERT Techno pleating – A unique innovation of the house in treating fabric, techno pleating is manipulation of the house trademark pleated-fabric to create shapes. Shapes that are either manipulated by hand or machine, by only one artisan that creates each piece. The way the fabric is pleated and structured, it allows for the wearer to move in the clothes; without feeling constrained by the hem’s of the clothing. Even though each piece is couture made, the buyer can be assured that they will comfortably be able to fit into the clothes through the journey of their life. The techno pleating material further allows the wearer to travel without worrying about creases. One can bunch up the clothes, such that it is compact and can be fit into a travel suitcase, unfolded and draped on the body. For a carefree wearer that is active and does not want to be worried about ironing, luggage space, but priorities aesthetics and cuts.
Photography : Peet Dullaert & Ketevan featuring Alexandra Ros